Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Sonoma Coast and Pinnacle Gulch Trail

Hike at Bodega Bay: Cove to cove, tide pools and more...

Pleasure Rating 1 2 3 4 5
Difficulty Rating 1 2 3 4 5
Mileage  Apx 3 miles
For a map of Pinnacle Gulch Trail Click Here


About an hour and a half north of San Francisco is the unique stretch of coastline that belongs to Sonoma County.  With its dramatic winding roads along a craggy cliffside of fallen rocks, Sonoma County possesses what is arguably the most gorgeous stretch of California's Hwy 1.  What makes this area so special is its remote, quiet, and unspoiled nature.  There are miles and miles of rugged landscape and not a town for 20 miles in any direction.  A millennia of solitude has created this unique and wondrous terrain and the forces of nature are ever present: the magnificent Pacific ocean to the west, its thundering waves crashing onto shore and patiently carving out the cliffs.  And the elegant redwoods towering upon the dramatic hillsides- a rugged land littered with jagged boulders and sliced with gigantic gulches. The Russian River and its innumerable streams steadily erode the gullies making ravines steeper and deeper with waters ever-flowing out to the ocean.  This is a land raw, broken, and beautiful!

However not many people know of this escape- the lengthy travel times, relentlessly curvy roads, and difficult access makes it an intimidating journey to most day trippers.  This means then, that if you do make the drive to Bodega Bay, Jenner, or Fort Ross- then you have this little piece of paradise all to yourself.  

Lets Go!
You will want to pack for a full day at the beach, complete with towels, flip flops, and a large picnic- but not so much stuff that you can't fit it all into a few backpacks.  Sunscreen and sunglasses are recommended- and, of course, do not forget your camera.  In order to make the most of your experience, you will want to time this trip just right according to the tidal schedule.  Low tide is essential for the optimal tide pool hike experience and for safety so do NOT forget to check the tide!

The drive to Bodega Bay is a beauty and a pleasure in and of itself- a window to the north bay's lush pastoral landscape.  This is a utopia for dairy farmers, with rolling green hills dotted with happy cows who produce some of the nation's best organic cheese and milk.  You can take the long scenic route via Point Reyes and Tomales Bay for a leisurely drive which includes adorable bayside towns, local farmers markets with fruit and artisan products, and a stop at a world class oyster bar or two. Sampling regional wines and eating oysters straight out of the bay is a fantastic experience worth stopping for.  Or you can be direct and take US-101 North to avoid the miles of squiggly roads.  It all depends on your crew, their tolerance for car sickness, and what kind of day you are in the mood for.  But keep in mind that travel times between each attraction dotted along the coast are lengthy- nothing is close by when you are in this neck of the woods.  

Take US-101 North, Roblar Rd, Valley Ford Rd and CA-1 N to Harbour Way in Bodega Bay.  Then take Heron Drive to Pinnacle Gulch Trail where you will park in a small lot and pay a $7 access fee.  Here there are bathrooms and water, which you will want to utilize because there are no facilities down on the beach.  


Let's Get Hiking!
Begin your short and simple jaunt down to the beach upon a narrow dirt trail lined with wild flowers and low grass, coastal birds twittering, and a babbling brook descending with you.  You can hear both the mooing of cows behind you and the crashing surf before you.  About a mile down you will land on the beach where you should take some time to explore the cove, throw off your shoes, spread out the blanket and get settled in for a delicious beach picnic.  

There is something so simple and wonderful about being on a quiet beach, eating a sandwich with grains of sand gritting in your teeth, smelling the salty sea air, and admiring the beauty abound- it nourishes the soul.  

On a sunny day you could just about fall asleep on this paradisal beach, but there is adventure to be had!  So after you've digested, get up, roll up your pants and go explore the intertidal zone.  This tide pool area is is about a 1/4 mile long and stretches south from the trail head.   It will include three coves in total with tide pools dispersed evenly between them.  With some good planning you'll arrive just in time for low tide, so again I recommend checking the tide schedule before you make the journey- this is a very important factor, as the outcroppings of intertidal sea creatures are inaccessible at high tide and it can be quite dangerous.  

Climb upon the rocks and  begin your hike into the first outcropping of intertidal zone.  Take time to examine the plethora of wildlife in these gorgeous pools just teeming with iridescent life.  A rainbow of unique creatures are hiding in each crevice- from starfish to anemones, mussels to crabs, sea cucumbers and more...  This is a rare opportunity to observe a special zone of otherwise unseen sea life.  Investigate the habitats of each individual species and help the kids to appreciate what a special encounter this is.  Each cove presents an opportunity for more exploration or relaxation, depending on your mood.  All three coves are private, quiet, and totally beautiful.  After you have had plenty of time on your intertidal expedition, it will be time to pack up your things and trek back up the hill.  Enter the trail on the third cove, there is no sign, but you will see the trail located toward the mouth of the gully where another small stream spits out.  This portion of the hike is a 2 mile stretch that will loop you back to the Pinnacle Gulch parking lot, via the hillsides.  Dotted upon the green hills will be more lovely dairy cows, a scattering of wild flowers, and a gentle stream.








Bodega Bay:  By the time you have dusted off the sand, gotten back to your car, and packed everything up, you have earned a treat!  So head into the sleepy seaside town of Bodega Bay for an ice cream cone or a beer.  There are a handful of adorable restaurants to choose from that will provide a much needed delight- coffee, wine, salt water taffy- you name it!  This is a quiet and peaceful little community that mostly attracts either campers to Bodega Head beach, or Hitchcock fans who yearn to see where his film "The Birds" was shot.  Other than the state park and the couple of restaurants, it is a desolate town, spooky even to this day, which is probably exactly why Hitchcock loved it so much.

Drive to Jenner thru Sonoma Coast State Park
At this time, you can take to the open road and Hwy 1 awaits- where you have unlimited miles of incredible coastline to encounter as you drive within what is technically Sonoma Coast State Park.  The drive north from Bodega Bay to Jenner is stunning.  Here you will see some of the most spectacular views of coastline in the world.  Quiet and unspoiled, peaceful yet dramatic, rugged and yet romantic- it is the stuff dreams are made of.  Although curvy and rippled with innumerable hairpin turns, the adventure and fun of exploring such a gorgeous place makes up for any car sickness you may feel.  Pull over at any one of the numerous turnouts in order to catch a breather from the stressful driving and get a closer look at the state beaches and coves.  It is worth stopping in order to appreciate the jagged precipices of rock and sandstone.  Goat Rock State Park is a great place to check out and get an up-close look at the natural arches and geological features.

The town of Jenner is just a sprinkling of houses and about five restaurants/inns.  Blink and you'll miss it!  Although tiny, it is is a sensational location because it overlooks the dramatic place where two substantial forces of water collide- the Russian River and the Pacific ocean.  The mouth of the river gracefully spits out of a wide gulch and gently meets the crashing waves upon a sandy shoreline.  This beach has a beautiful sand bar that widens at low tide and at high tide becomes a mere slice of beach, barely visible.  

You can extend your drive for as long as you desire, as there are continuous attractions the further north you go, including Fort Ross State Historic Park.  For my family, however, we are happy to find a quiet dinner spot and watch the sunset before heading home. There is so much to do and see along the Sonoma Coast that a day trip and a hike might seem to be lacking.  But the proximity to the San Francisco bay area makes it seem close enough that you can come back again and again exploring something new each time.  What a fabulous place to witness the rugged beauty of the California coast.