Sonoma Coast and Pinnacle Gulch Trail

Hike at Bodega Bay: Cove to cove, tide pools and more...

Pleasure Rating 1 2 3 4 5
Difficulty Rating 1 2 3 4 5
Mileage  Apx 3 miles
For a map of Pinnacle Gulch Trail Click Here

Why the Sonoma Coast and Pinnacle Gulch Trail?

About an hour and a half north of San Francisco is the unique stretch of coastline that belongs to Sonoma County.  With its dramatic winding roads along a craggy cliffside of fallen rocks, Sonoma County possesses what is arguably the most gorgeous stretch of California's Hwy 1.  What makes this area so special is its remote, quiet, and unspoiled nature.  There are miles and miles of rugged landscape and not a town for 20 miles in any direction.  A millennia of solitude has created this unique and wondrous terrain and the forces of nature are ever present: the magnificent Pacific ocean to the west, its thundering waves crashing onto shore and patiently carving out the cliffs.  And the elegant redwoods towering upon the dramatic hillsides- a rugged land littered with jagged boulders and sliced with gigantic gulches. The Russian River and its innumerable streams steadily erode the gullies making ravines steeper and deeper with waters ever-flowing out to the ocean.  This is a land raw, broken, and beautiful!

However not many people know of this escape- the lengthy travel times, relentlessly curvy roads, and difficult access makes it an intimidating journey to most day trippers.  This means then, that if you do make the drive to Bodega Bay, Jenner, or Fort Ross- then you have this little piece of paradise all to yourself.  

Lets Go!

You will want to pack for a full day at the beach, complete with towels, flip flops, and a large picnic- but not so much stuff that you can't fit it all into a few backpacks.  Sunscreen and sunglasses are recommended- and, of course, do not forget your camera.  In order to make the most of your experience, you will want to time this trip just right according to the tidal schedule.  Low tide is essential for the optimal tide pool hike experience and for safety so do NOT forget to check the tide!

The drive to Bodega Bay is a beauty and a pleasure in and of itself- a window to the north bay's lush pastoral landscape.  This is a utopia for dairy farmers, with rolling green hills dotted with happy cows who produce some of the nation's best organic cheese and milk.  You can take the long scenic route via Point Reyes and Tomales Bay for a leisurely drive which includes adorable bayside towns, local farmers markets with fruit and artisan products, and a stop at a world class oyster bar or two. Sampling regional wines and eating oysters straight out of the bay is a fantastic experience worth stopping for.  Or you can be direct and take US-101 North to avoid the miles of squiggly roads.  It all depends on your crew, their tolerance for car sickness, and what kind of day you are in the mood for.  But keep in mind that travel times between each attraction dotted along the coast are lengthy- nothing is close by when you are in this neck of the woods.  

Take US-101 North, Roblar Rd, Valley Ford Rd and CA-1 N to Harbour Way in Bodega Bay.  Then take Heron Drive to Pinnacle Gulch Trail where you will park in a small lot and pay a $7 access fee.  Here there are bathrooms and water, which you will want to utilize because there are no facilities down on the beach.  

Let's Get Hiking!

Begin your short and simple jaunt down to the beach upon a narrow dirt trail lined with wild flowers and low grass, coastal birds twittering, and a babbling brook descending with you.  You can hear both the mooing of cows behind you and the crashing surf before you.  About a mile down you will land on the beach where you should take some time to explore the cove, throw off your shoes, spread out the blanket and get settled in for a delicious beach picnic.  

There is something so simple and wonderful about being on a quiet beach, eating a sandwich with grains of sand gritting in your teeth, smelling the salty sea air, and admiring the beauty abound- it nourishes the soul.  

On a sunny day you could just about fall asleep on this paradisal beach, but there is adventure to be had!  So after you've digested, get up, roll up your pants and go explore the intertidal zone.  This tide pool area is is about a 1/4 mile long and stretches south from the trail head.   It will include three coves in total with tide pools dispersed evenly between them.  With some good planning you'll arrive just in time for low tide, so again I recommend checking the tide schedule before you make the journey- this is a very important factor, as the outcroppings of intertidal sea creatures are inaccessible at high tide and it can be quite dangerous.  

Climb upon the rocks and  begin your hike into the first outcropping of intertidal zone.  Take time to examine the plethora of wildlife in these gorgeous pools just teeming with iridescent life.  A rainbow of unique creatures are hiding in each crevice- from starfish to anemones, mussels to crabs, sea cucumbers and more...  This is a rare opportunity to observe a special zone of otherwise unseen sea life.  Investigate the habitats of each individual species and help the kids to appreciate what a special encounter this is.  Each cove presents an opportunity for more exploration or relaxation, depending on your mood.  All three coves are private, quiet, and totally beautiful.  After you have had plenty of time on your intertidal expedition, it will be time to pack up your things and trek back up the hill.  Enter the trail on the third cove, there is no sign, but you will see the trail located toward the mouth of the gully where another small stream spits out.  This portion of the hike is a 2 mile stretch that will loop you back to the Pinnacle Gulch parking lot, via the hillsides.  Dotted upon the green hills will be more lovely dairy cows, a scattering of wild flowers, and a gentle stream.

Bodega Bay:  By the time you have dusted off the sand, gotten back to your car, and packed everything up, you have earned a treat!  So head into the sleepy seaside town of Bodega Bay for an ice cream cone or a beer.  There are a handful of adorable restaurants to choose from that will provide a much needed delight- coffee, wine, salt water taffy- you name it!  This is a quiet and peaceful little community that mostly attracts either campers to Bodega Head beach, or Hitchcock fans who yearn to see where his film "The Birds" was shot.  Other than the state park and the couple of restaurants, it is a desolate town, spooky even to this day, which is probably exactly why Hitchcock loved it so much.

Drive to Jenner thru Sonoma Coast State Park

At this time, you can take to the open road and Hwy 1 awaits- where you have unlimited miles of incredible coastline to encounter as you drive within what is technically Sonoma Coast State Park.  The drive north from Bodega Bay to Jenner is stunning.  Here you will see some of the most spectacular views of coastline in the world.  Quiet and unspoiled, peaceful yet dramatic, rugged and yet romantic- it is the stuff dreams are made of.  Although curvy and rippled with innumerable hairpin turns, the adventure and fun of exploring such a gorgeous place makes up for any car sickness you may feel.  Pull over at any one of the numerous turnouts in order to catch a breather from the stressful driving and get a closer look at the state beaches and coves.  It is worth stopping in order to appreciate the jagged precipices of rock and sandstone.  Goat Rock State Park is a great place to check out and get an up-close look at the natural arches and geological features.

The town of Jenner is just a sprinkling of houses and about five restaurants/inns.  Blink and you'll miss it!  Although tiny, it is is a sensational location because it overlooks the dramatic place where two substantial forces of water collide- the Russian River and the Pacific ocean.  The mouth of the river gracefully spits out of a wide gulch and gently meets the crashing waves upon a sandy shoreline.  This beach has a beautiful sand bar that widens at low tide and at high tide becomes a mere slice of beach, barely visible.  

You can extend your drive for as long as you desire, as there are continuous attractions the further north you go, including Fort Ross State Historic Park.  For my family, however, we are happy to find a quiet dinner spot and watch the sunset before heading home. There is so much to do and see along the Sonoma Coast that a day trip and a hike might seem to be lacking.  But the proximity to the San Francisco bay area makes it seem close enough that you can come back again and again exploring something new each time.  What a fabulous place to witness the rugged beauty of the California coast.

Wente Vineyards to Del Valle Regional Park

Wine Tasting at Wente Vineyards followed by a hike at Del Valle

Pleasure Rating 1 2 3 4 5

Difficulty Rating 1 2 3 4 5

Mileage  3.5 miles
For a map of Del Valle Click Here

Why Wente and Del Valle?

When you think of northern California, wine usually comes to mind.  As it should, for California is home to some of the best vineyards in the world with Napa and Sonoma being the most famous regions.  However, less famous towns like Livermore are equally historic and distinguished among wine lovers, possessing some of the oldest wine growers in the state, Wente Vineyards being one of them.  In fact, it is the oldest and continuously operated family owned winery in the country. In 1883, C. H. Wente, a first-generation immigrant from Germany, purchased 47 acres in the Livermore Valley.  Recognizing that the warm days, cool nights and gravelly soils of the Livermore Valley were ideal for growing grapes, he planted vines and founded Wente Vineyards. 130 years later, Wente Family Estates continue to be family owned and operated by the fourth and fifth generation Wente's.
Located directly behind the Wente property is Del Valle Regional Park.  This wonderful East Bay regional park includes hiking trails, camping, fishing, boating, biking, and swimming.  Del Valle is especially beautiful with its rolling hillsides in the winter and spring seasons, conjuring images of Ireland with its emerald green grass.  In summer and fall, the hillsides are a carpet of dry grass dramatically engulfing the vineyards below, a brown and green quilt-work of thousands of rows of grapes.  Visiting this special place is like jumping into one of Monet's quintessential pastoral landscapes- an impression of Europe, right here at home.


Let's Get Tasting!
The drive out to Wente Vineyards is a pleasure in an of itself.  Located just about 10 minutes off  of I-580 in Livermore on Arroyo Road, the narrow country roads wind leisurely all the way out to the base of the hills, where you will be surrounded by rows of grapes as far as the eye can see.  There are two Wente locations, so when getting driving directions, ensure you are headed to the Arroyo Rd location.  Park your car and take some time to walk around the grounds and become acquainted with the setting.  This property is so beautifully designated with flowering walkways, a main fountain, and Spanish mission style architecture.  Find your way over to the small but cozy tasting room.  Here you can choose which grouping of wines you'd like to try, become educated in local grapes and the history of the vineyard, and get acquainted with what this winery is all about.  After you've been given your first pour, wander out to the outdoor tasting area- this is a divine and relaxing location to sip and savor your delicious local wine.  The landscaping and architecture of Wente is luxurious and elegant, but the ambiance is casual and relaxed.  You can be a wine expert or this could literally be your first tasting ever- the people here do not care.  They just want you to enjoy yourself and their lovely wine.  Sitting and sipping on this perfect patio feels as if you have slipped away on a European vacation, if only for a couple of hours; so take time to admire the surroundings and relax.

Let's Get Hiking!
After you have enjoyed your time at Wente, drive (or walk) about 1/4 mile up Arroyo Rd to the East Shore Trail parking lot on the left hand side of the road, just passed Camp Arroyo.  Here you will begin your hikeabout.  Bring water, a picnic lunch,  possibly a bottle of wine recently purchased at Wente Vineyards and your camera.

Begin your trek upon the East Shore Trail, a wide dirt path that will gradually lead you downhill toward a shallow creek bed.  Cross a bridge and approach the creek.  In the winter and spring this will be muddy and very saturated.  In summer it is a dry and cracking patchwork of parched earth.  Cross the creek bed and you will see an iron cow gate- pass thru the gate and continue on your hike.  Veer left on the trail and wind gradually uphill along a darling little creek bed toward the top of the hillsides.  Here you will be accompanied by the chattering chickadees and swallows that live in the valley oaks overhead.  Trees line the creek bed with a thin layer of lovely shade.

You will reach what looks like the face of some badlands-type of hillsides.  This dry and craggy outcropping is the home to more native birds who live in the small crevices.  Continue your gradual assent to the intersection of a new trail that veers right and you will climb uphill to the summit of the East Shore Trail.  

In the shade of a valley oak there sits a beautiful solitary bench, the perfect place to enjoy your picnic.  From this vista, you can see the grand expanse of Del Valle Regional Park- the majestic lake, the surrounding network of hiking and biking trails, the undulating hills as far as the eye can see.   Behind you is the incredible wine valley of Livermore, so pastoral and quaint. This is an East Bay treasure to savor, so sip, munch, and breathe the fresh air.  This is the good life- la bonne vie!

I recommend spending as much time up here as possible.  For the more adventurous and energetic hiker, head down any one of the gorgeous trails below to get a closer look at Del Valle; but for our kids, this is the perfect time to descend the hills and head back to the car.

You can head  back down the same way you came, but I prefer to make the loop by descending the adjacent trail.  This is a wider fire lane that winds back down to the same cow gate and eventually the parking lot.  

What I love about this hike is that it touches upon so many of my favorite things- fine wine, great trekking upon the hills, water features, wildlife, and stellar vistas- but most of all, it is such high quality time and fun for the whole family!  Cheers and enjoy!

Bikeabout Special: SF Golden Gate Bridge to the Marina Wave Organ

Bike the Golden Gate to the Marina Wave Organ
via Fort Point and Chrissy Field

Pleasure Rating:  1 2 3 4 5

Difficulty Rating:  1 2 3 4 5
Mileage:  6 miles

Why Bike the Golden Gate?
Is that really a serious question?  I mean, "why not" should be the question.  The infamous San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge is the city's most iconic landmark and beckons visitors from all over the world to come see and experience its architectural and artistic design.  The mouth of the world's most glorious bay is enhanced with beauty and grace due to the towering ruby red bridge that adorns it.  Not only should you see it, you should step atop it, walk it, bike it, or drive it- everyone should experience in some special way the best bridge in the world and in my opinion the best way is on two wheels.

Lets Get Biking!
First, pack a picnic, water, helmets, and a jacket.  You might want snacks to keep the kids perky.  Do not forget your camera- these will be some of best photo opps of your life!  Drive into San Francisco and park on the south side of the Golden Gate Bridge, at the intersection of Lincoln and Storey Ave which is located about one block off of HWY 1.   Here you will find a very inexpensive parking lot that is away from the dizzying crowds and traffic that surround the tourist pavilion.  Adjacent to this lot is the Battery of the famous Presidio where I recommend enjoying the lovely view of the bridge.  This is a fantastic spot to sit and enjoy your picnic, or if you prefer to do some activity first, you can save your lunch for a later part of the ride.

Start your ride by descending down Storey Rd,which turns into Merchant Rd toward the bridge.  From Merchant, make your first left onto Cranston Rd, which will lead you under HWY 1 and spits you out at the bustling Golden Gate visitors pavilion.  If you have time, take the opportunity to walk around and check out the exhibits.  Recently renovated, it features a very nice gift store, restrooms, a new restaurant, and awesome photography and history of the bridge.   This area is almost always busting from the seams with tourists and tour buses, which can be overwhelming and yet very cool.  To hear the variety of foreign languages and see the kaleidoscope of visitors who are so excited to be there is always a good reminder of how lucky I am to live here.

Proceed to the pedestrian path which for bikers will loop back under the bridge to the west side.  You will see signs for bikers leading you to the west side of the bridge because the east side is for pedestrians only.  This is a safety measure that frees up congestion and prevents collisions. Once atop the bridge carefully begin your trip across the bridge by bike!  Although at times there will be serious cyclists who zoom past you- ignore them and enjoy the ride.  You will want to savor this 1.7 mile stretch without the nuisance of busy bodies.

The view from the bridge is an unparalleled beauty; the lovely Marin headlands awaiting in the distance, the thundering waves splashing against their shear cliffs, the pelicans and seagulls swooping gracefully below the bridge, the juxtaposition of the loud rushing of a thousand cars flying by on your right and the tranquility of the sparkling sun hovering above the mighty Pacific to your left.  Above you the immense towers of red with their elegant swooping cables stand confidently with perfection and symmetry- a marvel of engineering and ingenuity.  Stop for a quick water break, take some pictures, touch the mighty bridge and savor the moment.

Proceed on your ride to the north side of the bridge where you can stop at the Marin Headlands parking lot and take more pictures.  Once you have had your fill of beauty from this perspective, you will double back on the same route toward the city.  From this angle, you will have stellar panoramic views of San Francisco and all its major landmarks.  Just try to count how many famous spots you can see- the Palace of Fine Arts, the Cathedral, Fort Mason, Coit Tower, Alcatraz, the list goes on and on.  I love to see the city from this one of a kind vista.

Fort Point:
Once you have safely crossed the bridge, follow the pedestrian signs for Fort Point, which is only 1/4 mile down the hill.  This path will wind you down toward the waters edge and you can park your bike right in front of the fort entrance.  This national historical site is an awesome voyage into San Francisco's past, dating over 150 years ago.  From its vantage point overlooking the spectacular Golden Gate, the fort protected the city from Confederate and foreign attack during and after the Civil War. The architecture and design with lovely arched arcades, spiraling staircases and elegant balconies are impressive.  Fort Point happens to be the only fortification west of the Mississippi with this caliber of construction design.

 

Crissy Field 
After you have explored Fort Point, meander over toward the "warming hut" for a cup of coffee and a snack where you can enjoy more gorgeous views.  This is where you will continue your journey on what is called the San Francisco Bay Trail- a dirt path that stretches all along the waterfront.  To your right is the grand expanse of green- Crissy Field.  This open park space is a fantastic spot for kite flying, or flying model airplanes, frisbee, fetch and the like.  People gather here to picnic and just enjoy the scenery.  To your left is the bay and Crissy Field Beach where you find more people sunning on the shores.  This 1.5 mile stretch to the wave organ should feel like an easy going joy ride, so don't be in a hurry.  Just enjoy!
Continue to follow the path- you will pass the marsh, the east beach, and the beach hut.  You will then enter the marina area where you will pass the Saint Francis Yacht Club, and then the Golden Gate Yacht Club and finally reach the Wave Organ.

Wave Organ
The Wave Organ is located on a jetty that forms the small Boat Harbor in the Marina district of San Francisco. The jetty itself was constructed with material taken from a demolished cemetery, providing a wonderful assortment of carved granite and marble, which was used in the construction of this piece. The installation includes 25 organ pipes made of PVC and concrete located at various elevations within the site, allowing for the rise and fall of the tides. Sound is created by the impact of waves against the pipe ends and the subsequent movement of the water in and out of the pipes. The sound heard at the site is subtle, requiring visitors to become sensitized to its music, and at the same time to the music of the environment. The Wave Organ sounds best at high tide.  Unfortunately we didn't hear any music, but the site is still a lovely place to enjoy the views and appreciate a unique piece of architecture.

Your major destinations are now complete- the main attractions have been achieved.  But the ride isn't over and beauty continues.  Turn around and double back along the San Francisco Bay Trail.  If you time it just right, you can return to your car in time to drive out to the edge of the Battery and watch the sunset- always the perfect ending to a day by the bay.